The New Station

The last few days have been pretty busy around here. Saturday was the official dedication ceremony for the new South Pole station (you know, the fancy new facility that I get to walk back and forth to from my tent every morning and evening). The weather had been really crappy and all flights were being cancelled, but luckily it lifted just in time for all the special visitors to make it in. These included the director of the National Science Foundation (the primary US science funding agency), a few more congressmen, and all sorts of officials from the State Department and Homeland Security and the military. In general, it's annoying to have these people down here, since all work basically comes to a stop so that they can be catered to and given tours. But the ceremony actually turned out to be pretty cool. We took a group photo in front of the old station, this geodesic dome structure you can see in the photo of my coworker Ryan and I below:



Then, the US flag on top was lowered and passed from person to person to the new station, where it was eventually raised. It was generally a pretty moving ceremony, since a lot of people have put in so much time and effort down here to make the new station a reality. It really is light years better than the old facilities (which weren't even heated), and it's the state-of-the-art as far as Antarctic living quarters go. Here it is:



On the other hand, the whole nationalistic thing with the flag and the government officials was a little bit ridiculous. To me, it only underscored the fact that no one can really ever own Antarctica. It's too big and it's too harsh. People can have a toe-hold here, and that's great and really useful for science. But it's not part of the US, and the US can never really own it. We put our flag here, but it's in no way ours.

If you're interested in reading more about the station, you can check out this Chicago Tribune article (thanks Ann!). It's a little misleading, since the dateline makes it seem like the guy is actually down here, which he doesn't seem to be...

In other news, yesterday I got to take part in a live webcast to the San Francisco Exploratorium (kinda like the Museum of Science and Industry or the Adler Planetarium, for my Chicago friends). It was pretty fun. Sorry I didn't let y'all know in time to see it live (I only had time to let my SF friends know) but if you want to check it out, it's still online. The webpage is here and the direct link to the realmedia webcast is here.

Damn. I'm Getting Old

So as you would expect, I've stopped shaving so that my burly mountaineer's beard can provide some measure of protection against the harsh elements down here. Now that's it's growing out, I'm discovering that I have a bunch of gray hairs in my beard. What the hell?!?

Shower Counter

For those of you keeping track at home, I took my first shower in 10 days last night. And oh was it sweet...

A Real Post From the Pole

Well, the windchill is -40F, but I'm sitting inside with some tea and finally have a free minute of satellite time to sit down and write about the last week. Let’s start all the way back at last Wednesday. On Wednesday, we flew down to McMurdo, about a five hour flight from New Zealand. The flight was actually perfect—smoother than the flight across the Pacific to New Zealand was. We landed at McMurdo on the frozen sea-ice, and it was so smooth we weren’t even sure when we touched down. Here's me just after getting off the plane:



I mentioned before that there was a congressional delegation on our flight. They were mostly members of the House Science Committee and the Ways and Means Committee as well as the Deputy Director of the NSF. It’s funny how well these people get treated. They get shiny brand new bags, while ours are all faded and beat up. They don’t even have to carry their own bags (I think you can see someone picking up their bags in the photo above). They board at the last minute, and they get the nicest seats up front. They continued on to the South Pole with us, so we actually got to talk to them quite a bit. More on that below…

McMurdo was nice, but nowhere near as amazing as last time. First off, let me just get this out of the way. I didn’t see any penguins. Zero. Zilch. So there will be no penguin souvenirs. Maybe I'll be luckier on the way out. The chances are better then, since the icebreaker will have come in and cleared a channel already. So keep your fingers crossed for me. Second, the souvenir shop was closed. What the hell. I came all the way down to Antarctica and couldn’t even buy a f*ing t-shirt.

Thursday morning we left for the Pole early. There were maybe 30 people on our flight, about half of them from this congressional delegation. Most of us got a chance to shoot the shit with them. Nogg, I spent some time talking to one of your representatives from the fair state of Nebraska. There was a woman from Cali and a few stereotypically dirty congressmen from Tennessee and Louisiana.

It was funny though. A bunch of us had just been discussing how badly science fared in the recently passed budget. High energy physics (including Fermilab) got crushed, and they actually pulled the US out of an international treaty for this big fusion energy project. So a couple of us asked the congress-people about this. And none of them knew that it had even happened. I might not expect your average congressman to be up on the science news, but these people are one the science committee, for God’s sake. What are they doing with their time if they don’t even read the bills they’re passing?

Well, we found out the answer when we got down here. They were more interested in playing golf than in their two hour whirlwind tour of the Pole before they got back on the plane. The guy from Tennessee reacted to the altitude so badly (we’re at 10,000 feet after all) that he had to be put on an oxygen tank. That didn’t stop him though. He was out there, golfing away, oxygen tank and all. The medical people were actually really concerned since his oxygen tubes were starting to freeze up. Guess that explains why they couldn’t be bothered to read the science budget…

Once again, I'm staying in a Korean-War-era tent (think MASH) a few minutes walk from the main station. I had a little trouble getting acclimated to the altitude (some lightheadedness, dizziness, etc.) but I already feel better acclimated than I ever did last year. At least I can walk up the stairs. And things are actually a little bit more relaxing this year than last. I have less to do, and I know what to expect. So I think I'll be able to get my Economist side projects done without arousing the suspicion of my bosses down here.

One last photo. It may be hard to see, but there's a beautiful rainbow around the sun from floating ice crystals:

Yes Mom, I'm Still Alive

Wow. It's been a long time since I've posted. I know you've all been waiting with bated breath for my next report. It's been an eventful few days, including my flight to McMurdo and then on to the Pole (among my co-travellers was a distinguished congressional delegation. I've got much, much more to say about that...)

Unfortunately, you'll have to wait just a teeny, tiny bit longer for the full story. There have been problems with the satellite connection at Pole, so I've been without the luxury of the internet for awhile now. Fortunately, the problem seems to be fixed, and I'm in the process of transitioning to night shift, so I should once again be basking in the warm glow of the Internet soon. I'll give a more full report (with pictures) sometime tomorrow...

P.S. I just found out that I'm getting to write a five article series of diary articles for the Economist's website. Should be fun. And should be a good chance to recycle some of the material from this blog...

Stopping to Smell the Roses

Today was a pretty relaxing day, culminating in a stroll through the botanic gardens. I figured I'd better get a whiff of the roses since I'm about to enter the land without smells. Well, I should say the land without pleasant smells. Of course there are plenty of disgusting, unshowered human smells.

We're supposed to report at oh-six-hundred tomorrow morning for the flight down there. If all goes well, I'll be writing next from Antarctica...

Deja Vu All Over Again

Well, here I am sitting in Christchurch again. I thought about calling this post "The First Shall Be Last" when I realized that I arrived in New Zealand on the first day of 2007 and then again today, the last day of 2007. But this surreal deja vu feeling I've been having all day won out.

Every step along the way of this trip so far has been similar but subtly different than last year. I feel like I'm in a dream or somehow reliving the past. I'm staying in the same bed and breakfast with the same friendly owners (and the same dog sleeping on the porch). My room is one door down from my room last year. I'm walking around Christchurch seeing the same shops and restaurants, knowing my way without needing a map. I spent the morning at the clothing distribution center again getting all the same cold weather gear from all the same Kiwi workers. It's almost like the last year hasn't passed. Of course, I'll be lucky if I still have this deja vu feeling when I'm staring at hundreds of penguins again in McMurdo, but I'm not holding my breath.

After reading some of my old blog posts from the end of my trip last year, I'm remembering just how miserable I was and just how much I wasn't expecting to be coming back down here. That's part of the reason this all feels so weird. But slowly, the excitement is creeping back in. I think when I get hit with that first blast of Antarctic air it'll be back (at least for awhile, before every last ounce of energy gets sucked out of me completely at Pole and I'm left with nothing but a vacant stare...)

We're scheduled to leave Christchurch for McMurdo on January 2nd. Tonight, though, is New Year's Eve. Some of you may remember my tortured post last year on New Year's and the international dateline, but there's no need to worry about anything like that this year. Ryan and I will be out on the town having a good time (if we can stay awake, that is...) Happy New Year's everyone!!